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PUERTO RICO HERALD

Latin Caribbean Comfort Zone

Hearty fare, kid-friendly staff a winner

By Jennifer Brett - Staff

13 January 2005
Copyright © 2005. All rights reserved.

There comes a time in everyone's life for a simple, hearty meal served by sweet, friendly people who don't charge much and who will lovingly whisk towheaded 18-month-olds right out of patrons' arms.

When that time comes, head for Mi Pilon in Norcross. The cafeteria-style restaurant serves Latin Caribbean cuisine ranging from beans and rice and roasted chicken to dishes for more adventurous palates.

We opted to save the stewed pigs' feet for another day and feasted on the more standard fare, seasoned simply and served in heaping portions.

THE MENU: Oven-roasted chicken, with just enough garlic and pepper, was fall-off-the-bone tender. Rice, steaming and piled high, hid under a velvety blanket of black turtle beans. They tasted as if they had been cooked for hours, as good beans should, and hinted of garlic, meat stock and peppers. They needed only a dash of salt. A fat fistful of fried plantains was served with both dishes. The plantain, lanky first cousin to the banana, can easily be overcooked, becoming limp and greasy. These plantains remained chewy.

TO WASH IT DOWN: Along with a selection of Coke and Pepsi products, Mi Pilon offers a variety of sodas from different countries, like Postobon, an apple-flavored soda; Jupina, which has a pineapple flavor; and Materva, an herbal soda. The staff was happy to give a quick guide through the cooler, noting drinks like Inca Kola (made by Coca-Cola); a cream soda popular in Peru; and Malta India, a malt drink popular in Puerto Rico. The beer list is also diverse. Along with Bud/Bud Light, Heineken and Corona, Mi Pilon stocks Presidente, a Dominican beer; and Modelo, popular in Mexico.

THE SETTING: Nestled along an unlovely stretch of Buford Highway in Norcross, Mi Pilon's simply appointed dining room, done up in peach and teal with a tile floor, is a comforting contrast. The plants decorating the restaurant give a welcome flash of green as diners contemplate the asphalt view.

KID FRIENDLY: A colleague whose two little boys have enough energy to light Turner Field reports that when young Sam and Reuben tear through their meals at Mi Pilon one of them usually ends up in the arms of an employee. If not a kid, then probably your tray. Though the service is cafeteria style, the folks there often take your tray to a table for you.

Mi Pilon, 5705 Buford Highway, Norcross, 770-797-2924

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. seven days a week

PRICES: $4-$8

CREDIT CARDS: Visa and MasterCard

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Pollo al horno (oven roasted chicken), arroz con habicuelas (beans and rice), fried plantains

RESERVATIONS: No

CHILDREN: They love kids

PARKING: On site

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

SMOKING POLICY: No smoking

NOISE LEVEL: Moderate

TAKEOUT: Yes

THE VERDICT: The staff won't let you go hungry, and they'll make kids feel welcome.

 

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